Most golfers picture a club fitting as an upsell in a lab coat — an hour of jargon that ends with someone recommending the most expensive driver on the wall. A good fitting is closer to a lesson you get to keep, so here's exactly what happens in ours, step by step.
The first ten minutes are an interview, not a sales pitch. What's your typical miss? How often do you play? Are you fighting a slice or protecting a fade you like? Your answers frame everything the launch monitor says afterward — the same numbers mean different things for a 22-handicap playing monthly and a 6 playing twice a week.
Then you warm up and hit your own clubs first. This is the step big-box fittings skip, and it's the most important one: your current 7-iron and driver set the baseline. If a new head and shaft can't beat your baseline by a meaningful margin, we'll tell you to keep your clubs. That sentence is the reason our fitting has a fee — it means the fitter isn't paid by the brand that wins.
The middle half hour is structured testing. We change one variable at a time — head, then shaft, then loft and lie — and watch ball speed, launch, spin, and dispersion, not just the one glory shot. Dispersion is the number that lowers scores: a driver you hit two yards shorter but half a fairway straighter is a better driver.
The last ten minutes are the honest conversation. You leave with a printed spec sheet — head, shaft, flex, length, lie, grip — that's yours whether you buy from us or not. Most golfers do buy, because the fitting fee is credited toward any club purchase, but the spec sheet is the actual product. It's the difference between buying a club and buying your club.